Nestled among tall trees in a quiet corner of Old Manali, this charming Kathkuni homestay provides the cozy ambiance of a century-old stone house. Guests can enjoy breathtaking views of snow-covered mountains while sipping on a steaming cup of vanilla coffee.
Shaila Siddiqui, the owner of the homestay, welcomes around 50 guests annually. Many years ago, in 1922, a devastating cloudburst struck the area, causing widespread destruction. It swept away people, animals, roads, trees, and houses, leaving a lasting impact on the region.
“This house remained resilient,” Shaila reveals.
The term “Kathkuni,” meaning a wooden corner, describes the construction of the house, made entirely from mud, limestone, and wood. Shaila explains, “In the Himachal region, houses were traditionally built this way. The combination of wood and limestone provided strength and durability to the structure. Back then, the wood used for construction came from trees as old as 100 years! Interestingly, this wood is resistant to termite and fungi attacks.”
Perched on a mountain, the house boasts four spacious rooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom. Shaila, driven by a non-profit motive, welcomes guests to immerse them in the authentic Manali experience — its local cuisines, festivals, and culture, steering clear of the touristy version known to the world.
“I like to avoid hosting a big group simultaneously. Having fewer guests over extended periods fosters a more open and connected atmosphere. Quite a few visitors stay for a minimum of two months, and there was even one who extended their stay to about a year. I’ve had the joy of hosting many solo travelers on their first adventure. This homestay has been a source of purpose and guidance for numerous individuals,” she expresses with pride.
Also Read: How I Moved From City Life To Mountains To Build A Kumaoni Mud Homestay
Before this homestay transformed into a place for other travelers, it served as a sanctuary for Shaila.
Breaking free from a life of suffering.
Growing up in a conservative family in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, Shaila faced a challenging childhood. There were times when she either longed to escape her home or contemplated ending her life.
In 2002, facing the prospect of an enforced marriage arranged by her father, Shaila made the courageous decision to run away. “I lived in a joint family and witnessed extreme brutality in that household. I vividly recall my mother telling me that taking one’s own life is haram (forbidden). Nevertheless, I had made up my mind to escape. I sought her blessings and left to forge my own path,” she narrates.
Having left her home at 22, Shaila, now 40, never returned to her parents, who, according to her, didn’t make significant efforts to bring her back in any case.
After completing her commerce degree, she kicked off her career at a call center for Bharti Tele-Ventures (now Airtel) in Delhi. Over time, she delved into the intricacies of marketing and sales, eventually relocating to Dubai for work in 2006.
However, in 2017, she returned to India, and one of her adventures led her to Old Manali. “I used to travel extensively, but I realized it was just a temporary escape. I felt quite lost when I arrived in Old Manali; I was searching for peace,” she reflects.
During a trek, Shaila stumbled upon this Kathkuni house, and that trek turned out to be a life-changing experience for her!
Discovered tranquility within a crumbling building
While the 1922 cloudburst wiped out all the homes in the village, this Kathkuni house endured, albeit in a dilapidated state. “I was told it had been abandoned for nearly 40 years. I simply adored this house from the moment I laid eyes on it. It was an instant love affair,” she says with a smile.
Simultaneously, Shaila, a devoted dog lover, noticed the plight of street dogs in Manali. “People, especially in villages, had an aversion to dogs, and there was no dedicated non-profit to care for abandoned street dogs. That’s when I envisioned transforming this rundown structure into a homestay and using the proceeds to care for abandoned street dogs,” shares Shaila, who currently shelters 12 street dogs in her homestay.
Shaila’s choice faced numerous unsolicited warnings from the locals. “Many people cautioned me because the house was in such a sorry state. They insisted it was beyond repair, lacking proper rooms for temporary residence. It was merely a structure made of wood and stones. But your decisions become more resolute when you’re on your own,” shares Shaila, who subsequently bid farewell to her decade-long corporate career.
Without compromising its essence, Shaila resolved to revive the structure.
Transitioning from spending all her money on shopping right after her salary landed, Shaila embraced a minimalist lifestyle in Manali. Instead of buying new clothes or shoes before wearing out the old ones, she redirected her savings towards restoring the structure.
To achieve this, she would trek uphill to gather mud for insulating the inner walls of the house.
Initially, the house was in a desperate state, featuring a broken roof, overgrown vegetation, insufficient rooms, and no bathroom. “I chose to repurpose the same broken wooden planks for consistency. I used a mixture of mud and cow dung to insulate the walls, enhancing their durability with a coating of Vedic plaster,” she explains.
“Additionally, I built a septic tank using locally sourced stones and rejuvenated aged wood with a fresh coat of paint,” she adds. From painting the house to constructing a toilet and embellishing it, it took her around four months to restore the house, costing her approximately Rs 3.5 lakh.
“To give the house an aesthetic makeover, I covered imperfections in the walls with creative drawings and decorations. I introduced vibrant rugs, ample lighting, and small windows for a cozy atmosphere. I even transformed a small attic from storage into a meditation room!” she enthusiastically shares.
Acting on the suggestion of a dear friend, now departed, Shaila named her homestay ‘Seize The Time,’ an English translation of Carpe Diem, a Latin aphorism. “Our guests stay for a long time and make the most of their time during their stay with us,” she notes.
While Shaila warmly welcomes many tourists to her homestay, she, herself, has put an end to seeking out new adventures.
“Now, I can’t stay in any other place for more than a week, even if it’s for work. I have a deep affection for Old Manali and its residents. There was a time when I left my own house and lived in many rented places, but this house is what I can truly call mine. Here, everything happens on my terms. Maybe I wasn’t a traveler; I was just running away from situations. Now, I have found my place and my peace,” expresses Shaila.
